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Fringe Theatre to Marvel & Disney: Interview with Costume Designer Sarah Dearing
- Emily Maguire
- May 2, 2024
- 9 min read
Updated: Apr 23
In episode 4 of the Inside Entertainment Industry Careers podcast, we are joined by Sarah Dearing. Sarah has travelled the world working in costume design. Her screen work as a costume cutter and maker has been featured in movies for Netflix, Marvel, and Disney, and her stage-making career has seen her work in many West End theatres, the National Theatre, RSC, and Shakespeare's Globe.
Sarah shares her journey into the costume industry, from her childhood dreams of being a vet to discovering her passion for costume design. She explores how our childhood dreams and experiences may not always align with our future career paths but how they can inspire us to explore different career fields.
She also discusses the differences between working in screen and stage productions and the creative inspiration she draws from various sources that influence the costumes she produces. Sarah emphasises the importance of building a network and taking care of oneself in the industry, which is essential for success in the creative field.
Listen to Podcast: Episode 4 with Sarah Dearing
Introduction and Childhood Careers
"Strangely enough, I also wanted to be a vet, along with an archaeologist, a marine biologist, and a firefighter. So, I think it took quite a long time for me to know that costume could be a career in the way that I do it now. But I was certainly always around very creative people. I had very creative parents, and we spent a lot of time together at festivals. My mom worked at various art colleges. My dad played music, so we were just around a lot of creative types."
Sarah Dearing's journey into the costume industry began with a variety of childhood dreams. Surrounded by creative influences, she eventually discovered her passion for costume design. Her parents' involvement in the arts and music exposed her to a creative environment, which played a significant role in shaping her career path. Despite initially wanting to pursue careers like veterinary science or archaeology, Sarah's exposure to creative people and environments led her to realise that costume design could be a viable career.
The Role of Work Experience and Mentorship
"I ended up doing some work experience in the college theatre where my mum worked for one week, and then in a local bridal dressmaker. I just went in and asked if they would have me. I worked there for a week; they taught me to sew and then took me on to work on a weekend. So I worked from when I was about 14, learning to sew and being around fabric from that point."
Sarah emphasises the importance of work experience and mentorship in discovering and developing a passion for a specific career. Her early work experience in a bridal shop and the guidance she received from her mentors were crucial in her decision to pursue a BA in costume design. These experiences provided her with practical skills and confidence, helping her to understand the intricacies of costume making and design.
Difference Between Stage and Screen
"Film teams are a lot bigger. The hours are very, very long, but they're a lot more structured and tend to be more hierarchical, so they can be really good if you have a specialism that you're really interested in or if you want to learn lots of skills from lots of people in one go. But I find theatre generally feels more creative. The hours are a bit more ad hoc. There's usually less of a budget, and it can be a bit more collaborative and creative in terms of technique."
Sarah discusses the differences between working in screen and stage productions. While film work is more structured and hierarchical, theatre offers a more collaborative and creative environment. Both mediums have their unique challenges and rewards, and Sarah enjoys working in both. She finds that theatre allows for more interaction across the team and fosters creativity, while film provides opportunities to learn from a larger pool of specialists.
Influence of Fringe Theatre
"I did lots of work with drag artists, lots of Cirque, and lots and lots of Fringe Theatre, which all tied into my background of going to festivals and being around creative people in that environment. And I think aesthetically, that's always been my happy place. You know, my dream job at uni was Cirque du Soleil or something like that, or a big drag artist. The kind of multimedia, slightly more quirky, slightly more abstract, lots of kind of queer theatre. Those really were huge influences on me."
Fringe theatre has had a significant influence on Sarah's work. Her early career involved hustling and taking on various freelance projects, including working with drag artists and Cirque performances. These experiences allowed her to explore her creativity and develop her unique style. The vibrant and unconventional nature of fringe theatre provided Sarah with the freedom to experiment and express herself through costume design.
Starting a Creative Business
"When I was working in Brighton, working between different jobs, I had jury service and lost one of my jobs because of it. Kevin, who I mentioned earlier, had a notice in his window looking for an assistant, and that was a freelance role, so I signed up as a freelancer right then. And I've never looked back. I have done some jobs that are PAYE or Schedule D when I've worked in larger film workrooms. But generally, I've worked freelance since then."
Sarah's transition from working for others to running her own business was accidental. She shares her journey of becoming a freelancer and the organic growth of her business. Building a network and having a reliable team have been essential to her success. The flexibility of freelance work allowed Sarah to take on diverse projects and grow her business organically.
Costume Designer Versus Costume Maker
"Design is generally a lot of research, lots of sketching, and lots of communication with the other departments, with the directors, with the showrunners, with the producers. In construction, you will be given anything from a stick figure to an absolutely beautiful complete illustration, and you need to work out with the designer how to make that work."
Sarah explains the differences between being a costume designer and a costume maker. While design involves research, sketching, and communication, construction focuses on bringing the designs to life. Both roles require different skill sets but are equally important in the costume industry. Designers conceptualise and plan the costumes, while makers execute the designs, ensuring they are practical and visually appealing.
Insights into Favourite Projects
"Bits of work that I'm particularly proud of are a version of A Midsummer Night's Dream I did at The Globe a few years ago, which had these wonderful carnival-inspired costumes. Juliette was my first West End job as a maker, where I worked with the designer from the very beginning to really work out how those costumes were going to go together. So that's one I'll always be really proud of."
Sarah shares insights into some of her favourite projects, including her work on "A Midsummer Night's Dream" at The Globe and her involvement in the film "Eternals." These projects allowed her to showcase her creativity and see her work on the big screen. The carnival-inspired costumes for "A Midsummer Night's Dream" were particularly memorable for Sarah, as they allowed her to experiment with vibrant colours and imaginative designs.
"To be honest, I think it's always amazing seeing your work on the big screen, so I'm kind of proud of all of it. I made some stuff, just some streetwear, for the Eternals movie and went and saw that in the BFI IMAX. And that was quite the moment when I saw my shirt, which was the size of a building. So that might be one of my favourite moments."
Seeing her work on the big screen in the film "Eternals" was a proud moment for Sarah. The experience of watching her designs come to life in such a grand setting was incredibly rewarding.
Challenges and Work-Life Balance
"Insecurity is something you have to get really used to. If you don't have the financial support of a family or network behind you, then there are going to be hard times. And I think it can be very lonely. So again, feeding back into what we spoke about before, building up a network and making sure, if you're working with a team, you trust people around you."
Sarah discusses the challenges of working in the costume industry, including job insecurity and the importance of work-life balance. She emphasises the need to build a supportive network and take care of one's physical and mental health. The unpredictable nature of freelance work can be challenging, but having a reliable support system can make a significant difference.
"Look after your body, particularly if you're making. It's okay if you have an evening where you can't push anymore, and you need a chocolate bar and a glass of red wine; you should do that. Or do some yoga or go for a run. It's just something that allows your body to relax and feel good and let out some of the stress physically and mentally because it's quite easy to get stuck into a loop and feel an awful lot of responsibility for everything."
Maintaining physical and mental health is crucial for long-term success. Sarah advises taking breaks, engaging in physical activities, and finding ways to relax to avoid burnout and stay productive.
Teamwork and Collaborative Working
"It's really important to push back against that and try and share your skills and all sorts of questions; you get further a lot faster if you can ask them something you don't know how to do. And you will end up with far better relationships if you share things that you've learned how to do openly and with good faith without being too concerned about who's standing behind you for your job because ultimately it's always a team effort."
Sarah highlights the importance of teamwork and collaboration in the creative industries. Sharing skills and knowledge with others can lead to better relationships and more successful projects. Collaboration fosters a positive work environment and enhances the quality of the final product.
Advice for Newcomers
"I ended up doing some work experience in the college theatre where my mum worked for one week, and then in a local bridal dressmaker. I just went in and asked if they would have me."
Sarah highlights the importance of gaining work experience and seeking mentorship. These opportunities provide practical skills and insights into the industry, helping newcomers build a strong foundation for their careers. She encourages aspiring costume designers to be proactive in seeking out work experience, even if it means simply walking into a local business and asking for an opportunity.
"Building up a network and making sure, if you're working with a team, you trust people around you."
Creating a reliable network of colleagues and mentors is crucial. A supportive network can offer emotional support, practical assistance, and valuable advice, making it easier to navigate the challenges of the industry. Sarah highlights the importance of surrounding yourself with trustworthy people who can provide guidance and support throughout your career.
"Look after your body, particularly if you're making. It's okay if you have an evening where you can't push anymore, and you need a chocolate bar and a glass of red wine; you should do that. Or do some yoga or go for a run."
Sarah stresses the importance of maintaining physical and mental health. Taking breaks, engaging in physical activities, and finding ways to relax are essential for avoiding burnout and staying productive. She advises newcomers to listen to their bodies and prioritise self-care to sustain a long and healthy career.
"It's really important to join the union. It's really important not to work for free, even though it's tempting, and try to push back against some of the more negative aspects of the industry."
Sarah advises newcomers to join unions and resist the temptation to work for free. Recognising one's worth and pushing back against exploitative practices are important for maintaining a sustainable career. She emphasises the importance of advocating for fair working conditions and compensation.
"It's really important to push back against that and try and share your skills and all sorts of questions; you get further a lot faster if you can ask them something you don't know how to do."
Being open to learning and sharing knowledge with others can lead to better relationships and more successful projects. Sarah encourages newcomers to ask questions and seek help when needed, as this fosters a collaborative environment and accelerates personal and professional growth.
"Work-life balance is really important. My advice would be to protect it and be nice to people. I feel really lucky that I spend my time doing something that I love. I absolutely love this career, and I put my whole life into it. But when someone gets very ill, or something like that happens, they take over, and you realize that your life is an awful lot more than your career."
Sarah highlights the importance of maintaining a work-life balance. Protecting one's well-being and being kind to others are essential for long-term success and happiness in the creative industry. She advises newcomers to prioritise their health and relationships alongside their careers.
Short Biography
Sarah Juliet Dearing is a costume designer and maker based in South London. Originally from Brighton, she studied Costume Design at the undergraduate level in Bournemouth and started her career as a freelancer working in fringe theatre and cirque performances in her hometown. She has gained broad experience across the industry in film, theatre, and events, with her work taking her to the UK and destinations such as Miami, the Caribbean, and Thailand.
Sarah's screen work as a costume cutter and maker has featured in movies for Netflix and Marvel, high-end TV for Disney, and various shows on ITV, Channel 4, and more. Her stage-making career has seen her work in many West End theatres, the National Theatre, RSC, and Shakespeare's Globe. She also loves to design and has increased this area of her practice with help from the Arts Council’s DYCP training grant scheme. Over the years, her business has grown, and she now works with a small, dedicated team from her studio, taking on colourful, creative and challenging makes for all mediums.
Learn More About How to Become a Costume Designer
Want to Know More About Sarah Dearing?
Visit Sarah's website
View her film credits on IMDB
IG: @sarahjulietcostumes
